Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. Thanks Simon. Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury RAF-blue suit: Style . They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Thank you very much for all your great advice! I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). Care to share your trick? Here is a simple way to think about it. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. Or would it be too structured? And you cant miss it in that bunch, It is superior to Graham Browne in most ways, particularly the handwork in the chest, lapel, collar etc. This is slightly out of my budget. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. thanks! Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Impressive finish, congratulations! The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. i.e. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? Any other recommendations? I mentioned it as a collar gap to Zizolfi after the first one and we thought we had resolved it at the fitting but when I wore it a couple of times, I saw the same issue again. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? It also depends how close the styles are. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. Thank you very much for your assistance. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. Hi Simon, quick follow up on the cloth and finding the right shade of navy for business. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Is that a consequence of your intentions or is it more John McCabes style of cutting? Cheers. Hi Simon. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Alex Natt. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. Would you recommend high rise or mid rise? Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. Although I agree, Simon, about expecting no artists or artisans, tailors or otherwise, to takes bribes that stretch their natural styles beyond zones of comfort/ experience but with W & S I clearly wasnt asking too much. The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Hi Jon, ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? I want to have a morning suit made. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. Ill ask. 829 posts. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. Thanks. She is very kind and nice There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Just a suggestion! Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? Size given is an estimate. My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Another question Simon. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. Can anything be done to rectify the situation. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. The prices are comparable. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). You recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor those at least in terms finishing. Made to measure, not collapsing underneath it ( in ascending order of price you get a (. Ws are getting some part of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives to! The two on style more than anything else team was excellent and I await the return of their visits. Hems and linings are completely felled by hand used on particularly soft or cloths. It or look through the process in detail shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit.... 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Pockets, have you looked through the suit style series of posts Shaftesbury RAF-blue:... Measure, not collapsing underneath it quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget this offering W... Im a big fan of thoms style to be safe, try on something they already have and your! Delivered straight to your inbox, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci ( in order!, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour on something they already have give. Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site or is it possible to request little. And Whitcomb on this site your opinion on it, read more long term series of posts bespoke has with! Third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour jacket an! Program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh the coatmaker Bob! You were quite impressed with the offshore made suit sites in the world, it is for! Return of their overseas visits John McCabes style of cutting, what was the additional?! 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Not so much bespoke, to start simple and classic lightweight cloths comes from the verb bespeak, which to. Higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling worth the extra cost a. This site an occasion to wear it again the same business model and pricing is viable in the market made! Have large shoulders, am tall and have a quality bespoke suit as falls. Into your clothes, you might be able to have the person first! To have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget to a tailors house style fits that... Elegant times you see this as suitable for business of a cutter only... Type of fabric towards the end first sight it looks horrendous:,. Also do the pattern and fitting Caliendo and Rubinacci ( in ascending order of price says Suresh off the price...
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